“For the first six months, all whe wanted was honest labor, finely crafted novels, and surf.”

“Dont work too hard. Try to maintain balance. Dont make work your whole life.”

“The more completely you can be yourself, the more fully and consciously you participate in the world.”

“Let your body work until it is spent, but keep your mind to yourself.”

“It is better to be hated for what you are than to be loved for what you are not.”

“If I am going to be drownedif I am going to be drownedif I am going to be drowned, why, in the name of the seven mad gods who rule the sea, was I allowed to come thus far and contemplate sand and t...”

“I'm an Earth ecstatic, and my creed is simple: All life is sacred, life loves life, and we are capable of improving our behavior toward one another. As basic as that is, for me it's also tonic and ...”

“Surfing is my religion, if I have one.”